These are the three remotes that I've been using. (There is a fourth one, the Mini Remote, which I tried once and gave up.) Their throttle throws are:
E-GO 24mm MayTech 8mm Winning Nano 4mm Using the Nano remote would make one feel that the board is very powerful as a slight push on the throttle would give you a lot of power. However, it requires more skill and attention to use it safely.
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There are several problems with my DIY now: the remote does not power up any more (need a new receiver and remote); the voltage display show a percentage (always showing 100%) again instead of voltage (need to fix a switch on the display PCB); and the left rear wheel is slightly coming off again (need to find a stronger glue). I changed the remote today. I sealed the enclosure with silicone to protect the board from water damage as much as possible. After removing the screws, some more work was needed to remove the silicone before I can separate the enclosure from the deck How does everything look like inside after more than one year? Will there be a lot of dirt? Will some wire insulation be damaged by rubbing against the bottom of the deck? Will some connections become loose? Let me flip the enclosure over! Wow, much better than I thought! The motor side foam seal moved inward somehow and dust went in. Not a big amount and I am happy. The height of the CAN Bus connector had me worried that the three wires would rub against the deck and break. Instead, they were just bent flat against the deck. No sign of abrasion at all. The MayTech Remote receiver is just a pcb with no housing. To keep it in position, I secured a piece of heat shrink tube (yellow) on the enclosure as a sleeve for sliding the receiver into. I need to replace this receiver with the one that came with the Winning Nano Remote. (As before, I covered the battery with plastic wrap to avoid accidental shorting. Looking at the instruction sheet, I could see that the pin layout was somehow totally different! Anyway, I tried pairing it with the Winning Nano Remote. It was not successful. And then I realized that the receiver was for the Mini Remote that I didn't like. Somehow, I didn't store the receivers with their matching remotes together! A bad move. After a while, I located the right receiver and made a successful pairing. I engaged the brake and the motors just ran wild. I had to power the longboard battery down immediately. After setting the Min and Max Pulsewidth with the BLDC tool, the Winning Remote was working normally. I attached the receiver on the enclosure with industrial strength Velcro. After that, putting all the screws back on! As before, I sealed the enclosure with silicone and put heat shrink around the screws to make hand carrying more comfortable. (If I ever do another DIY, I will make a custom enclosure that will fit perfectly with the deck curvature.) In retrospect, I should have tried to fix the display problem too. Well, may be in 2019!
Looks bad enough! OK, let me do it before the end of the season. Half way, it seemed. But not even close! The worn-out areas are too thin to pull. Need to scrape them off with a knife. Done! But why did I order black and not gray 2 years ago?
The problem: very frequent intermittent power loss from less than a second to 2 seconds. It could be a faulty motor, remote (signal jam), or the electronic control unit (ECU). Back in July 2016, the board was dead. I figured it was the ECU since the motor assembly was new. I ordered a new ECU from B&H and fixed the board. My friend, who was an electronic technician, tried repairing the faulty ECU without the board. He said he replaced a component or two. However, I didn't try it after the "repair". Since this "repaired" ECU was all I had, I was putting it back in. The swapping was easy, as I have done it several times before. Everything looked good after the remote pairing but the wheel just would not turn. OK, what else could be done other than swapping once again? And so I did.
No-load test on the bench (kitchen cutting board) worked perfectly-no intermittent power loss. And now the surprise-actual riding to and from work for two days showed very few power loss. Even if there were, they lasted may be only half a second. Even though I have no idea why it's fixed, I am happy! The Maytech remote of my DIY is dead. May be it's time to fix or attempt to fix all 3 of my boards! Obviously, this Kanthaka with Orangatang Kegel needs a new griptape. This should be easy, even though I have never ever changed a griptape before. This old Yuneec E-Go with a Sector 9 Slingshot deck was dead (again) after riding in the rain on May 18th (here). A month or two later, I tried pairing it with the remote again and it worked! Unfortunately, power output could be intermittent. It could be a problem with the motor, the remote (signal jam), or the electronic control unit (ECU). Since a back-up "repaired" ECU is all I have, I will try replacing the ECU. The Maytech remote is dead, could not powering up anymore. I am glad that it's dead after charging, not during a ride at high speed! Fixing this would be more troublesome than the other two boards as I have to clean everything, install a new receiver, and re-calibrate the Winning remote that I have using the BLDC Tool. |
DarrylTaking up longboarding... Archives
November 2018
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